Bass bridge?

[jackthehack]

See pics below; is that pilot hole pattern stock for any known bridge, or did somebody smoke crack and go nuts with a drill?

 

[SkuttleFunk]

it looks like it's been drilled for a thru-body Gotoh 206 and also for a stock Fender (or Gotoh 201). it probably was originally just a 206, but when they went away somebody got smart and re-drilled for that other bridge so this would find a new home

nice - you have loads of bridge options there (if you can find a 206 anywhere)

all the best,

R

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Ditto.

I see the 206, but there's more there than that.

Here's what just the 206 looks like.

 

[jackthehack]

I got that one on a $122 low ball bid, it'll just go in the stash pile till I find a 206 bridge

 

[Super Turbo Deluxe Custom]

Good luck with finding a 206.  You could put on a 201, and mark it through the string-thru route, drill it, file and bevel it to make it string-thru.  I did something similar with a Gotoh 203.  The two screws in front of the saddles are the same spacing as the 206.  The ones in back are Fender/Gotoh 201 style.  I drilled the four for the strings to make it string-thru.

 

[jackthehack]

I'll find one somewhere. If more than 10 people want something and a mechanical drawing is available on the web somebody in China will start knocking it off...

 

[jackthehack]

Body turned up today; has kind of schizofrenic figuring you can't take a pic of until finished; like in between quilt and flame...

I found this bridge at WDMusic; looks like it will line up OK with the string through holes, think I might have to fill a couple of the predrilled holes that are there:

http://wdmusic.com/ultra_deluxe_bass_bridge_black_24392_prd1.htm

This is a backburner body I couldn't pass up for $122, so I might wind up finding a 206 or something else sometime, who knows?

 

[stubhead]

Unless (and it's a BIG unless) the ones on Ebay are a Chinese knock-off, I've seen that same bridge on Ebay for around $30. WDMusic is not above turning a profit, shall we say....

A-HAH! :hello2: ->

http://cgi.ebay.com/CHROME-4-String-BASS-BRIDGE-Best-Quality-UPGRADE-BB24_W0QQitemZ130083124746QQihZ003QQcategoryZ41407QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

I was looking at Southeast Music's fivers cause I needed a narrow one, but I went a different way. Matching the screwholes seems less important than finding what you want, just plug 'em.... I use 1 1/2" screws to mount bass bridges anyway, no they're not falling off. :guitarplayer2:

 

[jackthehack]

I think they're BOTH the same bridge... Will have to check if Southeast can get the chrome model; was going to do a blue dye job on that body when I get around to it.

 

[jackthehack]

Got the $29.95 bridge in the mail yesterday. seems to be a nice heavy piece with good adjustability for string height/length; it CAN work on a std. Gotoh 206 bridge route, BUT:

1.) If you line up the string through holes exactly, the top two pilot holes for the Gotoh 206 aren't covered up and would need to be filled
2.) It seems like if you mod the top of the string through holes, i.e., drilled/rasped the tops of the string through holes at a 45 degree angle forward. you could move the bridge up a 1/4 inch to cover the existing top pilot holes for the 206.

See pic below; Skuttlefunk, any structural issue with option #2 above?

 

[SkuttleFunk]

hey Jack,

without physically knowing the bridge I can't say with 100% certainty ... but option #2 sounds OK so long as moving the bridge forward that 1/4" doesn't ruin you ability to intonate the lower strings. I would have concerns if you were instead thinking of angling the thru-body routes towards the butt end.

all the best,

R

 

[jackthehack]

hey Jack,

without physically knowing the bridge I can't say with 100% certainty ... but option #2 sounds OK so long as moving the bridge forward that 1/4" doesn't ruin you ability to intonate the lower strings. I would have concerns if you were instead thinking of angling the thru-body routes towards the butt end.

all the best,

R

I'm going to try it; you look at the design, there appears to be plenty of length adjustment to allow for moving the bridge forward to cover the holes

 

[stubhead]

If you can cover a length of 34 3/16" (treble) to 34 7/16" (bass) it ought to work... of course 34 1/8" - 34 1/2" would be even more comfy. Quick! If anyone has a low E longer than that,
stop him,  before he drills again....

 

[jackthehack]

If you can cover a length of 34 3/16" (treble) to 34 7/16" (bass) it ought to work... of course 34 1/8" - 34 1/2" would be even more comfy. Quick! If anyone has a low E longer than that,
stop him,  before he drills again....

Got a neck and a tape measure; if I move the bridge forward enough just to cover holes, max length adjustment for low E string would be 34 9/16ths, so I guess it should work?

 

[SkuttleFunk]

for a .105" E-string I get an intonation point +/- 34-5/16" on average for my rather low action, so it sounds like you're in the ballpark

all the best,

R

 

[stubhead]

max length adjustment for low E string would be 34 9/16ths, so I guess it should work?

I'd say that's well past what you'll need, unless you're planning on 1/2" high action.... :cool01: skuttlefunk's 5/16 might go to 3/8 with higher action, my 7/16 was a looong measurement. It looks like the string-through holes will have to have their tops angled, but that's the bridge design variance I guess. Always easier to move the holes than the frets! :cool01: