Another First Build

[Lukie]

Greetings,

Perhaps, like some of you, I could not find exactly what I wanted, either from Fender or eBay, (at least not at what I could afford).  So, I find myself contemplating my first build.  I would like to build my own interpretation of 56-57 Hot Rod/Clapton Brownie Strat.  Maybe, something Clapton would have bought used in the late 60’s and then upgraded the neck, pickups and hardware to his own taste, (or mine).  This will be a keeper guitar for myself and nothing I would ever want to sell.

Naturally, I have my own pre-conceived notions of what I think I want.  However, I have read numerous topics from this website and now I’m a little apprehensive before starting this process.  I’d like to run it by you, the specs of what I think I’d like to order and invite your input.  I also have some questions I’d like to ask and hopefully get some answers or feedback before ordering my body, neck and hardware.

Neck:
Vintage Modern Construction
One Piece Quartersawn Maple
Nut Width 1 5/8
Clapton Back Shape
9.5 Straight Radius
Fret Size:  SS6115?
Vintage Style Tuner Ream
Black Dot Inlays & Side Dots
String Nut White Corian – Earvana ?
Standard 4 bolt mounting holes
Clear Satin Nitro Finish ?

Body:
Vintage Strat – Alder
Top Rout
Strat/Strat/Strat Pickup Routing
Vintage 6-Hole Tremolo
Top Jack Rout
Standard Strat Neck Pocket & 4 Bolt Mount
Standard Strap Locks
White Gloss Vintage Pick Guard
Tobacco Burst Finish

Pickups
Lindy Fralin Vintage Hots

Still need to shop for tuners.  Fender Vintage?

My questions:
1.) Fret size:  I want Medium Jumbo in Stainless Steel.  Is the SS6115 correct?
2.) String nut:  I really have not idea.  I went with white and what looks to be deluxe?
3.) What about shielding material?  Should I purchase from Warmoth or is there something better?
4.) Neck Finish:  I prefer the feel of satin over gloss laquer, but with all of the discussion of DIY sanding, should I order with no finish and sand it smoother myself and then spray it with satin, or go with Warmoth’s clear satin Nitro?
5.) Decals.  Yes I want to do the forbidden thing here, but keep in mind, this is for me and not re-sale.  Do I need to have the headstock sprayed in gloss instead of satin to get the decal to stick better?
6.) What else am I not thinking of or addressing?

Thanks in advance!  This is a fantastic forum!

Lukie

 

[Cagey]

First, welcome to the board, Lukie! We have a lotta fun here, and there's a lotta talent floating around this place that's very helpful. I'm sure I don't speak for myself when I say we look forward to watching your build come together, so make sure you've got fresh batteries in your camera.

Und now is the time on Sprockets when we dance​

As misguided an idea as I think it is, I can understand that someone might want to use the same instrument/gear one of their heroes did. There's always the thought in mind that their hero did something right and owned the right stuff to become a hero, so what could possibly be wrong with following the same path? Can't hurt, right?

Thing is, more often than not those people had to fight with their instruments/gear. That they were able to be as good as they are/were is testament to their perseverance in the face of hardship.

There's no reason to fight that fight again. The ground has been gained and the state of the art owns it now.

So, you want your interpretation of a professional-grade Strat? Here are some considerations.

There's not a single reason on Earth to use "vintage" tuners. The things are junk. That's why they invented locking tuners: you can stay in tune longer than 15 seconds. Imagine that! Eric Clapton used them because he's a vintage human. He didn't have any choice.

The 6 point Fender bridge is a piss-poor mechanical tone-sucking design with limited range that doesn't want to hold tune the very first time you use it after tuning up. Why anyone still uses those things after all these years is a mystery for the ages. Eric Clapton used them because he didn't have any choice. They were as good as it got back then.

Today, you don't have to fight like our heroes did.

Now, you want something with a two-point knife-edge fulcrum. Everybody who's anybody has a version of that design out, because it works. Floyd Rose had the first version of that design, but it's more or less obsolete now due to its overall ridiculous complexity. Some people still use it, but then again, some people still build Jaguars/Jazzmasters with the idiotic bridge Leo came up with for those fiddles. In any event, Fender, Schaller, Wilkinson, Gotoh, Hipshot, PRS, et al all make nice stuff that won't eat your life and work extremely well even if you float them without locking pains in the ass nuts.

Finished necks are arguable. If you want some color, you have little choice. For feel, an unfinished raw neck is the only way to go, especially if you like satin. If you must have Maple, there's always Canary, Afra, or Roasted Maple. All are a shade or so darker than regular hardrock Maple, but are still fairly light-colored and sound the same. Since the neck is probably the single most influential part of an electric guitar besides the pickups, that's a consideration. Plus, it keeps finish off your fretboard where it doesn't belong.

As for frets, it's almost foolish to use anything but stainless. There's just nothing but upside. 6115s are a good choice.

Shielding pickup/control cavities is an exercise in futility. Some DIY-types do it out of a "can't hurt" point of view, but certainly nobody who knows any better will. Waste of time, especially if you're using single coil pickups. If you're using "noiseless" singles or "humbuckers", then you need to use shielded cable to wire the thing, but past that? Fuhgeddaboudit. On a Strat with single coils, you've got 3 half-mile long antennae sticking out of the shield. May as well put screen doors on a submarine.

Decals/stickers on satin finished or raw necks rarely look like anything more than tacky. You need to bury them in the finish to get them to look professional, and even then it's risky business unless you know what you're doing. There's nothing wrong with a naked headstock. Makes people ask questions, like "where did you get that?" to which you can answer "I put it together myself". Now you've got something to talk about and be proud of.

Oh, and nuts. Use Graphtech TUSQ nuts, at least. If you're going to have a vibrato bridge, an LSR is better, but I've had very good results with the Graphtech parts. Even with a Floyd Rose vibrato bridge, you can get away without a locking nut by using an LSR or Graphtech nut and locking tuners, which didn't exist when he came up with that design.

 

[line6man]

+1 on 6 point trems being worthless crap. I honestly don't understand why so many people buy into the idea that vintage is somehow best.

And another +1 to raw necks being the only way to go, for great feel.

 

[Cagey]

I know it always breaks my heart when I see Great Ape create another one of his incredible, unique artwork bodies and put a 6 point bridge on it. Always wanna slap him back and forth a few times and scream "WAKE UP! THIS THING IS ART! IT'S GONNA BE AROUND FOREVER! PUT A DECENT BRIDGE ON IT, DAMMIT!"

Artists. Can't live with 'em, and you can't shoot 'em.

 

[Great Ape]

I know it always breaks my heart when I see Great Ape create another one of his incredible, unique artwork bodies and put a 6 point bridge on it. Always wanna slap him back and forth a few times and scream "WAKE UP! THIS THING IS ART! IT'S GONNA BE AROUND FOREVER! PUT A DECENT BRIDGE ON IT, DAMMIT!"

Artists. Can't live with 'em, and you can't shoot 'em.

WOW!! I'm SO ASHAMED!! No, really, Kevin, I choose vintage Fender style bridges because they're entirely sufficient for my purposes. Actually using it as a vibrato is something I very rarely do, and then it's a subtle thing...is it a great vibrato bridge? Hell no, we all know that, but it works for me, and I strongly prefer that 'classic' visual effect. BTW, that Wilkinson unit is just an eyesore, and I don't find it to be a whole lot better than the 6-point. An alternative I do like is Super V's Bladerunner, which retains the vintage looks, but performs far better. All your advice is valid, of course (...sheesh, did I say that? Heh-heh...), but I think if Lukie wants to build a 'vintage' type guitar, then he/she should do that! All those crappy Fender components have been doin' the job for quite a while now...Will the finished piece have the enhanced performance, feel, and overall elegance that's possible with todays upgraded parts? No, it won't, of course, but it can still be a great looking,sounding and playing guitar. Again, if a vintage style instrument is the goal, well...
We're also tip-toeing over the line into the subjective/personal opinion realm here too, aren't we? Just a little? Anyway, I could not let your comment slide by without an attempt at defending myself--even though I don't need to...and as for slapping me 'back and forth', that's a whole 'nuther area perhaps we could discuss privately....KIDDING! I'm KIDDING!  :icon_biggrin:   

 

[Cagey]

Well, as long as you don't use the thing, I suppose it's all right  :laughing7:

 

[line6man]

BTW, that Wilkinson unit is just an eyesore

To each his own. I think it looks elegant and refined, whereas the saddles on traditional 6 points look dinky and cheap. I guess that's the beauty of parts builds, though. You can pick out what you like, and skip the things that you don't like.

*To be fair, I don't like the way Strat pickguards leave gaps between the bridge and the plastic, or the visible chrome parts on the studs, when using gold or black hardware, but that can be worked around.

 

[Great Ape]

"To Each His Own'' really is the name of the game here, ain't it? Wouldn't be much reason for this forum otherwise...

 

[Great Ape]

Whatever you decide on, Lukie, GO FOR IT, and the good folks here at unofficial Warmoth will be all too happy to tell you what you should have done instead! JUST KIDDING--there's endless unselfishly given help to be had here. Have a great time with your project!!

 

[Cagey]

... the saddles on traditional 6 points look dinky and cheap.

That's because they are dinky and cheap. It's a slice of lightweight, stamped, roll-formed sheet metal. You couldn't make 'em cheaper or more tone-sucking if you tried. Any back-alley sheet metal shop with a roll-form line could make a 10 year supply of the things in a day or two. I doubt they cost much more than $.05 - $.07 each to make by the time they're tapped and plated. Probably a quarter of that in China, where Fender likely gets theirs. Then, you've got all those nooks and crannies to collect dirt, dead skin cells, oil, sweat, beer, hooker dust, etc. and they're practically impossible to clean up without a jeweller's ultrasonic bath.

But, some of the greatest guitar players to ever grace our ears have used them, so whaddaya gonna do? Many iconic guitars have those installed, so you're never going to talk anybody out of them. Besides, it's not like they're useless - they certainly work - they're just inferior to modern designs.

 

[Great Ape]

...''hooker dust''?!? YIKES!!

 

[Day-mun]

...''hooker dust''?!? YIKES!!

It's "spare no expense" when it comes to guitar bridges, but it sounds like KG doesn't mind goin' cheap when it comes to other things!  :icon_jokercolor:

 

[bagman67]

...''hooker dust''?!? YIKES!!

It's "spare no expense" when it comes to guitar bridges, but it sounds like KG doesn't mind goin' cheap when it comes to other things!  :icon_jokercolor:

 

[Cagey]

Hehe! No, I don't indulge. I'm not sure what I'm worth, but I'm quite sure it's more than that.

I'm talking about the stuff the pre-teens, strippers and hookers call "Body Glitter"...

Terrible, terrible stuff. Gets on everything that gets within 10 feet of it, and resists removal as tenaciously as radioactivity. Roommate's granddaughter came to the house about 3 years ago with some of that stuff on when she was about 12 years old, and I'm still vacuuming the shit up. You see it in bars all the time on brain-dead chicks who are doing the best they can to look shiny to potential mates.

 

[bagman67]

Note to the potential lothario:  Your nominal committed significant other WILL find you out if you go to the mat with a hooker-dust-encrusted specimen.  For precisely the reasons Cagey cites above.

 

[Day-mun]

Sorry, Cagey! I couldn't resist.  :laughing7:

-Know what you're talkin' about with that crap getting/staying everywhere; there are still iridescent dress-shaped dust-prints on the seats of my car from when my daughter and her friends took it to prom. Last year.  :doh:

 

[Cagey]

What's funny is the stuff isn't attractive at all. Not sure how these girls ever got the idea that it was. Plus, it's gotta ruin a lotta their stuff, too.

 

[Strat Avenger]

Unless you already know you prefer small frets, I'd suggest 6150. I consider them a "Medium Jumbo", although technically, they may be a Jumbo (but not extra-jumbo like 6100 and 6000).

 

[bagman67]

I favor the 6115 for my personal use, and it is NOT a "medium jumbo."  It is narrower than what usually passes for jumbo, but with similar height to a jumbo.


Cagey, that maple neck with the beauty mark that I sold you has 'em (unless you pulled 'em and refretted, which I wouldn't put past you)  - how would you evaluate them vis-a-vis jumbo-larity?

 

[stratamania]

OP you didn't list out any volume and tone pots etc, unless they are just assumed.

If you want a vintage tremolo get one. If you want to shield the cavities do it.

I personally prefer more modern trems but do have one guitar still with a vintage trem.

A lot of the current vintage fashion even for guitars that have been distressed with body glitter and tobacco smoke is fine, but there are more efficient functional improvements available that you may consider that have been mentioned above.

But at the end of the day it's personal choice and about what you want.