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Already scheming my next build

Miskatonic

Junior Member
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After being able to sit down and play (albeit not so well <-- Noob in need of good practice habits) the Warmoth Explorer and really enjoying the hell out of it, I'm already envisioning the next build. I use to surf the online stores and day dream about what I would get, but now that I've experienced the custom build I'm completely sold on it. I am not a DIY guitar build guy so it is nice to have all the services Warmoth provides as well as a cool Luthier in the area who I am happy to support by giving him work.

So here's what I'm thinking of. Wasn't sure if there was a specific sub forum for this so here goes, lol.

Body:

Chambered VIP
Mahogany
Quilt Maple Top
Rear rout cavity
Neck/Bridge Humbucker (Whatever I get I'll have chrome covers)
Strat Controls: 1 Volume, (Not sure if I'll include tone), 3 way switch (Black knobs)
Recessed Original Floyd Rose bridge (Chrome)
White binding
Top finish: Red dye
Back/Sides: Black gloss

Neck:

Warmoth pro angled (Warmoth headstock)
Mahogany
Ebony fretboard
1 11/16" Nut width
Standard Thin (No wizard option)
10-16" Compound
22 Length
White binding
6100 Fret
Cream face dots inlay
Solid black gloss on back of neck and headstock.
Schaller mini locking tuners (chrome)

Only problem so far is that Warmoth doesn't offer a cheaper version of the VIP body.  :-\
 
Sounds like specs for something I'd build, but I would trade the Floyd for a Wilkinson and I'd make sure the frets were at least stainless, unless gold would match the finish better. The differences between those two and standard nickel-steel are huge. And while they work well, Floyds are sort of a pain in the ass, and stainless or gold frets are dramatically easier to play as well as wearing much longer.
 
It's a no-brainer. They only charge $20 more, and they're far superior to the standard frets. You're probably going to spend at least $1,200 on this thing, so what's $20? About 1.5%, so fuhgeddaboudit. Trust me; you won't be sorry.
 
Miskatonic said:
AutoBat said:
STAINLESS STEEL FRETS!!!

Lol, alright, I'll add em' to the list. :)

Edit - Looks like I'll have to give up the neck binding if I want the stainless steel. :(

I forgot about that, but it's true. Stainless frets are harder, so they take a bit more effort to grind into shape and I suspect they worry about harming the binding in the process. It's a small concession, if you ask me. Stainless frets make the thing play better, while binding is purely cosmetic.
 
Cagey said:
Miskatonic said:
AutoBat said:
STAINLESS STEEL FRETS!!!

Lol, alright, I'll add em' to the list. :)

Edit - Looks like I'll have to give up the neck binding if I want the stainless steel. :(

I forgot about that, but it's true. Stainless frets are harder, so they take a bit more effort to grind into shape and I suspect they worry about harming the binding in the process. It's a small concession, if you ask me. Stainless frets make the thing play better, while binding is purely cosmetic.

Very true and it costs less overall which makes me happy.
 
Another thing you should be aware of is that some shops will charge more to end dress/level/polish SS frets, but don't pay it. The excuse is that the SS is:

1. Hard on the tools, and
B. It's more labor intensive and takes longer to do

Truth is, that's only if you buy cheap tools. Anybody gives you that horsepucky, find another shop. Or, don't even bother. The neck will be perfectly playable as it comes from Warmoth and many folks just live with that. But, sometimes a nicely rounded and polished fret feels better. I've done it both ways, and while I prefer the dressed and polished frets, it's a minor thing. I only bother if I'm going to the shop for something else and remember to bring the guitar with me. They only charge $25 where I go, and they do a fantastic job, but then I don't have the instrument for a week and I've got to go get the thing back. I don't drive, so it's a pain in the shorts.
 
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