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2pac poly finish

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mammez

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i am ordering a swamp ash body with a zebrawood cap, and intend to finish it myself, has
anyone had any experience with finishing bodies in 2 pac polyurethane?
Would you think the properties of zebrawood allow it to be finished in 2 pac
without any troubles?

thanks in advance!  :occasion14:
 
There is a product called - "SprayMax 2k clearcoat", made by SprayMax....

Its a 2part - in - one -can poly/epoxy finish used on cars

They use it in small areas and touch ups where the shop can activate a can of the stuff in the morning, and have it go all day at a reasonable price.

Reasonable is $20 or so per can. 

You can get it in 1hr or 12hr cures.  The 12hour flows slightly better, and is a little brighter in gloss - I was told that by the manufacturer themselves when I called 'em.

The 1hr is just fine for what we do though, and buffs out just great (and you dont have to worry about a gnat landing in it... as much).

Down side - needs FULL protective gear.  You at least need a full respirator, organic type (about $40), tape the seals at the cannisters to prevent leaks too, and you need eye protection, so you may want to just get a respirator with that built in (about $60-$70 for the one you'll need).  You'll need some blue latex/nitrile glove, and "probably" do ok wearing two long sleeve t-shirts and having the glove seal the cuffs.  Your neck needs protection as well. 

The stuff has whats called isocyanates, which cause in-curable and chronic asthma, as well as incurable and chronic dermatitis.  You dont want to get the stuff on you or breath it.  The protection is not overly bad... but you do need it.  NEED being the key word.

Test your respirator's organic filter.  If you spray some lacquer or pour some gasoline on a rag... and try to sniff it though the organic filter respirator, you should not be able to smell it.  When you can, the cartridge is used up and needs to be replaced.  There is no mistaking isocyanate/poly/epoxy paint if you've ever been even remotely close to an auto body shop before.  Its "that" smell.

After all that... I can tell ya... the stuff works great.  Lays down well.  Sands up great with 600 paper to get rid of the orange peel.  You'll need a tack cloth between coats as it does not melt into itself like lacquer.  You need to remove any particulates with the tack cloth.

So there ya go.  I've only used it on a motorcycle fender.  No issues.
 
Not sure what 2 pac is...what type of finish are you looking for?  Gloss or satin?  If you are looking for gloss, you will 1st need to fill the grain...


With the zebra...I choose a natural (satin) finish.  My zebra cap was on Korina.  I simply used about 6-8 coat of spray poly, satin..MINWAX.  nothing fancy.  Finish went on perfeect and is tough as nails.  LOOKSs REAL natural too.

This was the 1st guitat I finished like this so I was a little nervous...but after 16 months of heavey playing...the finish has held up great....

DSC00143.jpg


 
=CB= said:
After all that... I can tell ya... the stuff works great.  Lays down well.  Sands up great with 600 paper to get rid of the orange peel.  You'll need a tack cloth between coats as it does not melt into itself like lacquer.  You need to remove any particulates with the tack cloth.
Click to expand...

I was under the impression you didn't need to sand the stuff - that it flowed out nicely on its own. Is that not true? And if it needs sanding to get rid of orange peel, I assume it also needs buffing/polishing to get the high gloss? Durability issues aside, may as well use lacquer if that's the case.

I've used catalyzed enamels on cars before and they went on looking like wet glass, then cured that way in no time flat. That was the big draw to the stuff - labor reduction. Shoot it and forget it. You're done, and it looks like lacquer that somebody spent days buffing and polishing.
 
DMRACO said:
Not sure what 2 pac is...what type of finish are you looking for?  Gloss or satin?  If you are looking for gloss, you will 1st need to fill the grain...


With the zebra...I choose a natural (satin) finish.  My zebra cap was on Korina.  I simply used about 6-8 coat of spray poly, satin..MINWAX.  nothing fancy.  Finish went on perfeect and is tough as nails.  LOOKSs REAL natural too.

This was the 1st guitat I finished like this so I was a little nervous...but after 16 months of heavey playing...the finish has held up great....

DSC00143.jpg
Click to expand...
That...Is... a NICE guitar!
 
Cagey said:
=CB= said:
After all that... I can tell ya... the stuff works great.  Lays down well.  Sands up great with 600 paper to get rid of the orange peel.  You'll need a tack cloth between coats as it does not melt into itself like lacquer.  You need to remove any particulates with the tack cloth.
Click to expand...

I was under the impression you didn't need to sand the stuff - that it flowed out nicely on its own. Is that not true? And if it needs sanding to get rid of orange peel, I assume it also needs buffing/polishing to get the high gloss? Durability issues aside, may as well use lacquer if that's the case.

I've used catalyzed enamels on cars before and they went on looking like wet glass, then cured that way in no time flat. That was the big draw to the stuff - labor reduction. Shoot it and forget it. You're done, and it looks like lacquer that somebody spent days buffing and polishing.
Click to expand...

My own direct experience is on the front fender of my Harley.  I sprayed lacquer metalflake, then clear lacquer, then the 2k.  There was a little bit of ... not really true orange peel.... but a bit of uneven texture.  The lacquer was dead smooth.  I've seen this on other car finishes - tailgate of my Ranger for one, where its just not smooth as it "should" be.

We have a member here here did... I think he called it his "Charger" Strat.  Done in blue and black.  He had an ok amount of texture, which sanded right down flat, and then buffed right out.  My own experience was the same. 

So, use the stuff.  If it needs some light (600g, wet) sanding, go for it, thats easy.  Then you can buff, by hand is fine, with Mother's or Turtlewax.  Hint:  I use Mother's mag wheel polish as the "first" compound, then Turtlewax white compound as the 2nd buff, and finally some plain old fashioned car wax on top of that.  Works great.  Treat the wood like a car part... no issues.
 
Ok, thanks. I was hoping for something that came out like a Warmoth finish in one shot, but I guess that would be like winning the lottery, eh? <grin>
 
Thanks, but I think I'd rather have my balls pounded flat with an 8lb. sledge <grin>
 
AutoBat said:
How about this 2pac finish?
Click to expand...

I hear it practicaly shoots itself...available in either 9mm or .45 cal.....
sterb003.gif


sterb026.gif


sorry about this but I could not resist after seeing that work of art!
 
thanks for your replies (and other discussions!)  have the issue sorted. Got onto my old man who is a cabinet maker,
he will do a nitrocellulose high gloss finish and a true oil finish on my wenge neck for me for only a case of beer!
 
mammez said:
thanks for your replies (and other discussions!)  have the issue sorted. Got onto my old man who is a cabinet maker,
he will do a nitrocellulose high gloss finish and a true oil finish on my wenge neck for me for only a case of beer!
Click to expand...

Good deal!
 
post pictures! when it gets there in pieces... then a few assembly pictures... then when it's done... then when the Guitar Of The Month contest starts...  :icon_biggrin:
 
yeah, i'm just gonna oil the neck once, but everything else will be finished.
Unfortunately, money is tight right now, so i will have to sell my baritone tele
to pay for tis new build, but with the 7 string i will gain a 4th higher and
a tone lower as the new guitars tuning will be A,E,A,D,G,B,E.

thanks again!
 
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