Recent content by Shadow

I know I don't post here very often, but I tend to lurk and read the depths of the forum fairly regularly. :icon_jokercolor: Anyways, I just wanted to quantify this a little bit with some math: Given that your E and e are the same height off of the fretboard, the difference in height at the D...

Jumble did the calculations and some explanation about this on his blog actually: http://www.jumbleguitar.com/2012/04/17/bridge-logic-revisited/ Hopefully it helps some, but the conclusion he came to was that the closest you could get was two shims each on the outermost strings, and 1 each on...

The other method that hasn't been mentioned yet would be to stick a battery box into the control cavity cover. You'd have to check that it wouldn't interfere with any pots and switches inside the cavity, but I've seen it done. Sorta like this:

:toothy11: Huh... Just sounds strange to think about, but ok. The less technique I have to change, the better. JC's comment kinda threw me off there.

Wait... So that's not part of playing guitar? :icon_jokercolor: I think part of the problem I have with the barre chords is something along the lines of this. When I play, I essentially squeeze the neck between the fretting fingers and the thumb, and all pressure coming from there only.

Sorry, late to the party here, with school I don't get to read that often, let alone post. This interests me because I have a similar issue. Essentially, I can play for as long as I want on my squier strat, so long as my thumb is wrapped over top. Like so: But as soon as I put it in a...

Hopefully it helps. :) So then the frontal area would be equal to 3√(72/82) or ~0.915, in which case my mock up is a little bit off (2.5%), but it should be fairly close. EDIT: If you want I could make another one with the smaller one centered.

???

If it's a warmoth, then the fret board is 1/16" wider on each side of the neck for a superwide.

For whatever reason, this build always comes to mind when tonar is mentioned... I'm still in love with the side burst on an electric. http://www.unofficialwarmoth.com/index.php?topic=4976.msg159820#msg159820 Edit: That should give you an idea of his work and a link to him as well.

The word I wanted to use in place of bite was eluding me, but yes that is what I had meant. If you choose to go with a brighter neck you can tone it down with a cap to kill some of the treble if you want as well. However there are some really nice warm raw neck woods as well, such as Wenge and...

While I do not own a warmoth myself, I do agree with the above, it's pretty hard to be neck heavy with the longer-horned bodies. These would include VIPs, Strats, and Soloists. As for body woods, Korina definitely looks awesome, but there are still quite a number of mahogany builds around here...

:doh: I was thinking about that after posting and then realized the routs would show the wood colour. Now if only the tone control was that light... :laughing7:

So is that the vintage tint binding? If so, it seems to look pretty good with the gold. (Gathering ideas for a future proj. :help:) Oh and :kewlpics:

Yep, following what they said, the 24.75" and 28.5" conversion necks will work on any of the 25.5" bodies. The ones that wont are the 24" and the 7/8 stuff. Welcome. You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave...  :icon_jokercolor: