Recent content by leftystratman

ok, one correction, the instruction on Minwax Tung Oil states: 1) Wipe or brush on a generous coat of Minwax® Tung Oil. Apply in the direction of the grain. 2) After 5-10 minutes, buff evenly with a clean, lint-free cloth. so I'm supposed to be just buffing, but should I buff until the...

hold on hold on.  I'm a newbie, but I read that you'd have to wipe off the excess when finishing with tung oil, it's even on the minwax tung oil can.  but I can see how glossy it would look if I didn't wipe it off....  I mean, it's really glossy when it's still wet on the body.  can someone clarify?

you'll have a better luck with using stains than tinted oil varnish.  for the base coat, use something yellow-ish, then stain the burst around the guitar with walnut.

so far, I've put 5 coats, lightly wet sanded twice, and it looks like this: still no way near glassy gloss finish like some of other guitars I've seen on this site!  but the surface is becoming more even now.  I guess I just gotta keep tung oilin'.

I lightly wet sanded the surface and used a bristle brush to apply the oil and waited around 10 mins this time!!!  it went really well, it wasn't tacky as I thought it would be, probably brushing it on instead of wiping with a cloth made the oil cover the body more evenly.  anyways, I can...

are you considering oil finish for burst because you don't want to use the spray?  if so, I've used oil based wood stains and hand-stained the burst with a pretty good result.  I assume you can use any oil finish over it.  tru-oil seems like a really tough oil varnish.

thanks tfarny.  I've been wiping it off throughly, and the surface always becomes touch dry right away so far.  after 3 coat, it's finally getting  a slight flame / satin sheen (I definitely want some glossy look to a certain extent), but no way near the pics I've seen of guitars finished with...

I've just started tung-oiling a stained maple top using Minwax Tung Oil.  I know I'm supposed to wipe the excess off with a lint free cloth.  so my question is, should I wipe it off as if I were to scrape the remaining oil or lightly wipe the oil off leaving a thin film of oil on it? after 5...

drum roll please....  it's fixed!!  the problem was there wasn't enough space in the pocket to rotate the neck, it was super tight (not so tight that you'd break the pocket).  I know how tight, or loose might be a better word, the neck pocket is on my Fender strat body, so I kept...

thanks everyone for all the info, especially CB!  the neck I'm using is a MIJ Fender strat neck, and it fits fine in any Fender strats as well as my Warmoth tele body.  and I checked the alignment along the fret dots, and yes, it's crocked.  so I will sand the pocket slightly and try rotating...

I usually order by phone, they confirm the order at the same time.  I assume they can tell if the credit card payment was approved or not right away.  and as soon as they see it, your order is confirmed, and I'm pretty sure that's when they get the production going.

hey Superbeast520, thanks for the tip!  that's a great idea.  I'll try it later today.  but what if the bridge is not perfectly centered?  what can be done?  the screw holes for a bridge were already drilled, and the bridge has counter sunk hole, so I can't really  shift the bridge base.  it's a...

I just noticed that at the highest fret (21) on my hollow strat, the high E string is really close to the edge of the fret.  I had a similar issue with a USACG strat body which was a little more severe, so I assume this may be quite common.  so I'm wondering if anyone has an advice on tweaking...

the comparison to ES 335 is quite accurate, I love how it sounds warm and jungly at the same time!  it sounds bigger than a solid strat body for sure.  and aaahhhh, the weight, you would no longer pick up a LP again. :rock-on:

yeah, I kind of wanna use a palm sander, but certainly don't wanna screw up the binding...