Recent content by john_p_wi

They (Fender) can do it, the Govan Charvel has had a roasted maple neck and stainless frets for some time.  IIRC, it was available before Warmoth offered the roasted maple...

I have a modern neck that I purchased mid-90s that looks very similar.  Heel adjust only, with the squared off fretboard overhang.

TUT1 and TUT3 are very good books...

I used to be heavily involved in amp design and building in the early - mid 90's thru 2010 and stepped back for various reasons. Seriously, love or hate, check out Kevin O'Connor.  His TUTs are the real deal and so is the "Standard". Also realize, that his prices are shown in Canadian loonies...

It is possible to use the OFR bushings and studs with the Gotoh bridge.  I did that this past spring on this body and works very well...  yeah yeah, you don't have the Gotoh oversize studs, buts works well for me...

I have been playing since 1980 (although you would never know it) and must say that the tube is magnitudes easier to learn tunes from than picking the record needle up and repeating sections of a song like we used to.  Even if it is only seeing a glimpse of the actual artist playing the song in...

Hmmm, guess I'm odd man out, I love the Gotoh Floyds without the locking nut. They come with a brass block too, fortunately i have not had the need for replacement parts. The tone is not any thinner than my Callaham, G&L, other Gotohs etc. Honestly, I don't think titanium would be much of an...

EL or electroluminescent is a lot of fun to play with, it can easily be screen printed onto Mylar and excited with 160 vac, very low current (one can easily use a battery powered ac inverter).  Generally it is used in keypads etc, but one has to be careful do to the ease of noise injected into...

20+ years ago in a previous work life I was an engineer for an international medical company who made "fiberglass casts" or splinting material, you know the bright blue, yellow, pink etc colored casts people wear to immobilize a fracture.  In the lab we used to experiment with glow in the dark...

Before you get too far, may I suggest that you verify that the neck actually fits the pocket of the intended body and a measured expected point of intonation from the bridge to proposed nut location can be achieved?  The only reason that I bring this up, is that the one thing that I have learned...

Very sad indeed. Man, as a kid I played the grooves out of "Still Alive and Well", his 1973 release. Saw him live in the early 90's, besides being full of machine gun fast riffs, he just bent the hell out the strings...  He was playing an Erlewine Lazer or similar headless guitar at that time...

Cagey, The idea behind the under string leveling with the neck under tension arises from the idea that some necks only develop humps etc while under string tension in which the leveling bar would eliminate. arjepsen, Cagey's advice above is very good.  Personally I think using the 6" dia sharp...

Above, you mentioned that the center was .052 while the sides were .047 inch, - I would start in the center as there already is a 0.005 difference in fret height.  Mark the frets and go slow with a lot of measuring and marking in between.

Yes, the frets need to be level - following the path of the string with a rigid leveling beam WILL change the compound radius if done improperly, which is why in first post I mentioned that the best success that I have had is going across the strings.  Generally, I need to raise the action above...

Without physically seeing the neck and without having a proper setup, it can be difficult to understand what is happening.  As previously mentioned, I always use a notched straight edge down the center of the neck to make sure the neck wood is straight.  One of the most difficult things to learn...