Recent content by Cagey

Hi everyone! Sorry to drop out of sight, but health has been bad and no computer at the moment. All I really have right now is the cellphone, and texting on this thing is a challenge. Once the computer is back up, I look forward to communicating again.

Thanks!

If you must use Warmoth's frets, the 6150 (gold) is so close you'd likely be happy with them. If you're fretting yourself, the Warmoth 6105 gold = Jescar FW47096EVO. Incidentally, those are pre-cut, so you might want to get the 1lb coil and size/radius them yourself. I find it easier to fret...

Wow. I had no idea, either. I'm sure there must be a tonal difference of some sort, but harps are sorta like accordions and banjos in that they're one-trick ponies. A set of 15 songs sounds like one long song.

Oh, man, my deepest condolences. I can only imagine the pain. Know that my heart goes out to you, with all my best thoughts.

Beautiful job! I'm impressed! About how much time do you suppose you put into it? Would you do it again?

Two issues come to mind. First, you'd be working against the grain, which is rarely a Good Thing. Second, rubbing/buffing compounds are too fine to start the process. You could perhaps use them to finish once you were up to needing 2000+ grits, but by that point you may as well just finish off...

LOL! Too much fun!

As long as the fretboard isn't twisted, you can always bake it again to build in more/less relief. A known straightedge (a machinist-grade tool, not just a ruler - they can be pricey, so check ebay first before throwing $100 at Starrett or StewMac) and a fret rocker will reveal a twist.

Well, at 8 years old, it's old enough to be a third-grader  :icon_biggrin:

Necks and steam don't go together well. Consider that builders spend months of time "seasoning" the wood to get it to just the right moisture content before they cut/machine it into a product. Some hardwoods are more prone to move based on moisture content than others, with Maple probably being...

I'm glad that worked out for you. It's not the kind of trick you need to do too often, but it's a good technique to have in the back of your head  :icon_thumright:

Remember what I said in the how-to - don't overbend it thinking it'll spring back. The bend you put in it is the bend it will end up at when it's done cooking. If you overbend it, the truss rod may not be able to compensate, and you'll have to bend it again.

It's a valid concern, but I've done it before without issue. Polyurethane is remarkably durable. I think the first time I did it and wondered how the finish would fare, I considered that the neck was useless as it was so if I borked it up, there was little loss. Worst case, I'd have to...

I got your PM but thought I'd answer here in case anyone else was interested. I wrote a how-to thread here describing how I bent the first one I did. The process seems to work well and the effects seem to be permanent. I've done it a number of times now with good results.