Recent content by burst

That's great info ruscio. Direct before and after is much better than my attempts to extrapolate..next time I spray a body I'll weigh it before and after. I remember once using 8 13oz reranch aerosol cans just to get a paper thin nitro finish I kept sanding through. There must be a lot more...

First sorry to hear this one came in heavier than you thought it would. I agree with rockandroller. I must admit I never thought of this before and didn't think to weigh a guitar before and after spraying. But a cured finish is definitely a solid material added to the guitar. It prompted...

Interesting I knew about the Goeldo Duesenberg connection seeing their tremolos - but not about Rockinger. Thanks!

Metallic blue with the Tele chrome hardware will look great! I might have been tempted to do a firebird in that universal route with a white pickguard. Are the control plate, knurled knobs, and switch tip also Göldo? They make some interesting stuff. I had to copy paste it I don't know how...

Well Warmoth is usually great about publishing specs for compatibility like pickup and bridge rout dimensions. So maybe they could add a note to the Control Cavity info page ;) What most people call a Super Switch is made by Oak Grigbsy. Its sold under that name by AllParts, StewMac, and...

Ahh thanks it makes sense now. Memories of widening a recess for a super switch freehand with a dremel before I had proper tools are coming back... :)

Have not tried it but it seems like a good design for tuners with the pin hidden under the housing. For years Sperzel was the only one using this design and all they gave you to help was a cardboard alignment gauge printed on the box. People would butcher those installs so badly!

If I understand correctly, this issue is caused by the thickness of the top wood the switch is mounted to when using a rear rout control cavity, not the switch itself. I didn't follow what snipping the wafer would do. These switches are intended to mount in thin material like a Tele control...

Hello - I can't say that I take any extra precaution with drilling or driving screws into roasted maple or other splinter prone woods other than usual best practices. Will you be using a handheld drill or a drill press?

I sort of went down this same road from friends and family asking what can you do or help me do requests wanting to put together a custom guitar that looks good but not "like furniture" or "homemade". I think its a catch-22. Most of the the classic finishes were colorful solid or translucent...

Biggest general pitfall on roasted maple is its prone to chipping. I use a procedure similar to the one from the Cagey post, but with a step to slightly bevel the top of the holes with a large countersink before tapping. (If that step was in there I missed it) I got that idea from this tdpri...

Going back to the original question specifically about the radius... The 10-16" is a little to extreme for me. Like I don't think much is gained as opposed to just a flat 14", 15", or 16"radius. Take the typical Strat neck 25.5" scale / 22 frets / 1.69" Nut / 2.19" heel. The 10-16"...

I attach the foam to the body for the simple reasons that a lot of pickups have labels on the baseplate which adhesive would destroy if you ever want to sell the pickups. I've scored a few used pickups at a discounted price because of that :cool: Or I've seen baseplates get permanently...

Hello - I really like the idea of an inspired by homage not a replica. Medium to Dark wood top, gold hardware, and hardtail would be a great combo. Among Warmoth choices I might go with Figured Walnut over Rosewood if available. It's a little more interesting to look at. A dark wood top will...

Right on with the mahogany comparison. Not trying to dissuade but I would design a guitar with a Mango top like one with a Mahogany top. The thing is I can't think of a well known solidbody with a separate Mahogany top as a point of reference. The closest is one model Thinline Tele which is...